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A walk with fantastic views from Tamaimo, West Tenerife
I did this walk with a group of friends on October 23rd when we were still having very wam sunny weather with clear skies making excellent views. Since then the weather has got more autumnal and yesterday we had a whole day of rain in Guia de Isora. Of course that is not a bad thing for a naturalist, as we will, of course, see more growth and flowering of the plants in the coming weeks. It’s back to sun today, so no complaints!
The walk starts from Tamaimo in the Santiago valley. We left the TF-82 leading to Chio and Guia de Isora, on a narrow road called Calle la Rosa. It is a steep street between houses, bending to the right and climbing till it reaches the last house. From here on there is a footpath, zig-zagging up the steep side of the valley, with the views improving all the time as you climb.
The path reaches the end of another tarmac road as you near the top. We went left on the road for a few yards and then left onto another footpath. This led us to the edge of the new ring road that is being built at the moment. The path used to go straight on here, but has been diverted down a deep cutting, through a tunnel and up the other side to meet the old path. We were pleased to see that, after a silent summer on the road with no work being done due to shortage of money, some work has restarted as promised.
The path continues uphill till it reaches Arguayo’s bypass which it crosses to join the main street through the village, where we went left. Towards the end of the village, on the left, is a pottery museum where you can see potters demonstrating the traditional methods of making pots. The work was traditionally done by women, and outside the museum is a lovely statue in tribute to their work. The museum is worth a quick visit, if it is open. It is housed in a typical old canarian house built around a courtyard.
We turned left after the museum, passing the statues to reach the bypass again, which we crossed again to join a footpath on the other side. The footpath starts as a steep concrete road with steps in the middle, and shortly has a fork in it, where we turned left. From here it is roughly level for a while before turning sharp right and starting a long but gentle descent back into the valley. From the flat bit we were able to look down the valley and down to the roadworks below at the entrance to the tunnel which goes under the mountain we were walking around.
The descending path is surrounded by a great diversity of plants, which makes this walk of great interest in the spring, and into the summer, but without any substantial rain yet this autumn there were few flowers to see this time, just the Verode (Kleinia nerifolia) which seems to flower whether or not there has been rain, and then launches huge numbers of seeds on hairy ‘parachutes’.
The path comes down to the level of the new road and crosses a track, continuing for a while along the right-hand side of the road, until it reaches a tunnel built under the road, and continues on the other side. An embankment on the right of the path here had a lot of native plants growing on it, including the local Marguerite (Argyranthemum gracile) which was in flower. Then the path reaches a fork, the path to the right goes to Santiago del Teide, but we took the left one, to El Molledo, which passes an electricity pylon, goes through some fig trees to reach a pedestrian crossing across the main road from Santiago del Teide to Los Gigantes. Over the crossing, we walked down into the village to the square by the church, where there are lots of benches so it makes a good lunch spot.
After lunch we left the square on the opposite side, going across a cross-roads into a narrow street heading downwards and towards the other side of the valley. It came down to the streambed of the barranco running down the valley, and became a footpath crossing it and going up the other side to a signpost at a junction, where we went straight on, and again straight on at the next signpost. Shortly after the second signpost we took the left fork in the path, which descended slightly and then contoured around the edge of the valley with fine views down it, and across it to Mt Teide.
The path passes a fenced-off small finca, which, before the 2007 forest fire that affected this area, was a goat farm. Now the goats are kept lower down the valley. Then a small climb takes the path to the top of the ridge, where a huge geological dyke can be seen, which forms the core of the ridge. It is an intrusion of molten rock during volcanic activity, and is composed of rock more resistant to erosion than the rock into which it intruded. The path then follows the dyke down the ridge, with the dyke forming a high wall on the left of the path. It is topped in places by a rock plant with yellow flowers in spring, a Houseleek (Aeonium sedifolium).
On this occasion the only plant flowering here was the Tenerife lavender (Lavandula buchii), growing out of the side of the dyke.
A junction with a signpost indicates our chosen path for descent from the ridge, going left in gentle zig-zags. On the left as we start the descent is a cliff, which in spring is worth scanning for Tenerife samphire (Vieraea laevigata), a yellow daisy-flower which hangs off the cliff, which is an endemic of the Teno area. It is also an area I have often seen Ravens (Corvus corax tingitanus) flying.
At the bottom of the descent another signpost at the junction with the path running down the valley edge, and we turned right. After a short while we turned left where an arrow indicated a path crossing the barranco streambed to turn gently downhill. Or there is another turning further on also. Both join up after entering Tamaimo and arrive at the main road just below the T-junction in the middle of the town. To get back to where we started we went up to the T-junction and turned right, but we stopped in a bar for refreshments first!
This walk took us about 4.25 hours, was about 12 km/7.5 mls and involved around 600m of ascent.
A circular walk from Santiago del Teide, Tenerife
My friends and I decided to do this walk last Wednesday as it combined a lot of paths we knew in a different way, involved a link we were not familiar with and a recently cleared path back to Santiago del Teide we had never used. It turned out a varied and pleasant walk which we all enjoyed.
We parked opposite the barbeque park just beyond the church in Santiago del Teide and walked along the main road towards Erjos past the turning to Valle de Arriba and up to the next bend where the footpath starts. This footpath has a sign either end saying it is temporarily closed. However, it is a good clear path and in better state than many we know that are open. There is, however, near the signpost that ends our use of it, a short section which is steep, with loose stones, that could be slippery in damp weather, especially when coming down. We have never found it a problem going up.
The path passes a group of Eucalyptus trees on the left at the beginning but as it climbs the left hand side is open and there are pines on the right, enabling excellent views back down towards Santiago del Teide. The open area was affected by the fire in 2007 but is now repopulated with mixed shrubs. On the path we passed a Sea squill (Drimia maritima) in flower. Its name is inappropriate for where it grows in Tenerife, which is in the mountains rather than near the sea but even its spanish name, Cebolla maritima, which translates as Sea onion, gives it a connection to the sea. It is a bulb whose leaves appear earlier in the year, then they die back when the flower is produced in late summer. This year seems to be a good year for the flowers, I don’t think I have seen so many in previous years.
e reached a signpost where our path, which continues up to the Degollada de la Mesa, meets the end of a track. We turned right onto the track which winds its way, roughly on the level, around Mt Gala with its fire watchtower and communications masts. Here we started to see signs of the recent fire in the area, with some areas where the trees were brown and the ground was covered by ash from the burnt pine needle carpet. These trees will recover quite quickly after rain, as the fire has rushed through and not burned intensely around them.
The track rises gently to a ridge where it meets the access road for the Mt Gala installations, which we crossed to descend towards the Erjos lakes. At the moment only one has a little water in it, unlike two winters ago when we counted seven lakes filled with water. The slope we walked down was badly burned in the recent fire, although even there a small patch of laurels had survived in a dip on the way down.
It was noticeable as we continued that the only green on the burnt areas was the regrowth of brambles and bracken from their roots. How resilient they are!
Passing the lakes, we turned right where the waymarked path we had been following went left. Shortly afterwards we went left up a track which zig-zags up to the main road near the Restaurant Fleytas. A short walk along the road, passing the restaurant on our left we approached a house just past the junction with the road going to San Jose de los Llanos, and turned left immediately before it to join a concrete farm road which dips down into the valley and up the other side. This avoids walking on the road to San Jose which you can use if you prefer. The concrete road joins the San Jose road just before the roundabout where the new Eco museum entrance will be. The buildings there seem to have been completed, and the car park areas constructed and landscaped, but there is no sign yet of it opening. Perhaps the present economic situation is the cause of the delay.
From the roundabout we took the track signposted as the way to the Rural hotel. We also joined one of the footpaths in the PR-TF 43 complex which connects with the circle around Chinyero, but we were not going that far! We walked past the rural hotel and up to a crossroads of tracks. The yellow/white path continues straight on, with another branch (to San Jose de los Llanos) going left but here we turned right. (Well, if I’m honest we went left for a small diversion, which did not turn out well so I am not relating it!)
We followed the track as far as a fork with a fig tree between the two prongs and took the left track, heading fairly straight towards Mt Bilma a reddish-coloured volcano. We passed many fields with fig trees on either side of the track. Ignoring a track to the right we continued walking straight on until, after 20 minutes walking from the crossroads, we met another junction with a track, which was part of the yellow/white waymarked path from Santiago del Teide to Chinyero. We turned right there to return to Santiago del Teide.
Following the yellow/white markings on the track with lava on our left, we shortly turned to the left at El Fronton – the end of the Chinyero lava of 1909. The pile of lava is about 4 metres high, with an abrupt end, and in front of it a turning circle for vehicles driving up the minor road from Valle de Arriba, and on the far side of that a small white shrine. The signpost for the trail points straight on for Santiago del Teide 3.6km away. The route we took followed this signposted route from now on.
The path went towards Mt Bilma for a while and then took a 90 degree turn to the right and started downhill with a view of Mt Gala, which we walked around earlier, ahead of us. After crossing another footpath, the slope became steeper and rougher and needed attention, and at the bottom of that section, next to a wedge-shaped reservoir was a fork, with the signpost pointing to the left. This was the beginning of the new bit of path we had not walked before. It did prove to be quite rough underfoot for much of the way, so if you prefer a more comfortable walking surface, I suggest you go straight on, which leads you onto the Valle de Arriba road, where you would turn left to get back to the start. However, we walked along the new path which wound its way across the rough ground to arrive on the edge of the village not far from the church.
Reaching tarmac we went right, left and right again to get to the church plaza where there is a Tourist Information office. We had only to turn right, along the main road going to the left of the church to get back to where we parked.
The walk was 13.5km /8.4 miles long and took about 4.25 hours (after deducting our unsuccessful diversion). There was approximately 400m of climbing.